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Thread: GWL11 Hot Water Inlet Valve

  1. #1
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    Default GWL11 Hot Water Inlet Valve

    HELP!

    I have no water coming through the hot water inlet valve during hot or warm operation. After reading these forums, I checked the water supply, checked the filter for blockages and after realizing the solenoid on the inlet valve was not actuating during hot operation, I ordered a new hot water inlet valve from this site.

    Well.....after pretty easily replacing it (Thanks forums!), I still have no inlet valve solenoid actuation. What could it be now? Problem with the controller module? Something interrupting the signal from the controller to the valve? Grounding issue?

    The cold water mode works great, but after 1 hour of time and $50, the wife wants the hot water mode!

    Thanks in advance for any help.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by slick_spe3 View Post
    HELP!

    I have no water coming through the hot water inlet valve during hot or warm operation. After reading these forums, I checked the water supply, checked the filter for blockages and after realizing the solenoid on the inlet valve was not actuating during hot operation, I ordered a new hot water inlet valve from this site.

    Well.....after pretty easily replacing it (Thanks forums!), I still have no inlet valve solenoid actuation. What could it be now? Problem with the controller module? Something interrupting the signal from the controller to the valve? Grounding issue?

    The cold water mode works great, but after 1 hour of time and $50, the wife wants the hot water mode!

    Thanks in advance for any help.
    Normally we'd suggest you take an ohm meter and check the resistance of the valve coil, it should be 64 ohms. However, you indicated that you already replaced the valve. As you can see from replacing the valve, the harness back to the control is very short and runs right to it, so if you have properly inserted the connector to the new valve and get no operation, then your control unit is faulty. But you can also put the machine in diagnostic mode and manually operate each valve, have you done this? Make sure you actually have a problem- these machines do not fill up the tub with hot water, rather, they only add pure hot (when selected) at the beginning of the cycle where it fills with a SMALL amount of water for the recirculate cycle. (With the exception of Perma-press)
    When you start a cycle on "regular wash", and select HOT, and press START, what happens? If the valve were not operating, the machine should go into fault mode and beep and give a water valve fault. If the machine is allowing water to flow in at the very start, that would HAVE to be hot water. What throws people off is they will open the lid at the point where the recirculate function has finished and the machine begins to fill the rest of the way up to agitate. That water will NOT be hot, regardless of what temp you select. The machine has always worked that way.
    The hot water is let in at the start, and the tub rotates in a circle and the water pump also runs, it takes that initial small amount of pure hot water, mixes it with the detergent and showers the clothes with the hot water and detergent. Research shows the enzymes in the detergent are only active for a short period of time, it is a waste of energy to fill the tub all the way with pure hot water.

    Make sure you actually have a problem. It's not uncommon for people to not fully understand how this washer works and think there is something wrong, when there isn't.
    Thank you for allowing us to serve you!

  3. #3
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    Here's what I found last night:
    In diagnostic mode, NO hot water comes through the hot water inlet valve. That confirms what was occurring when my wife was trying to use the Hot Wash Cycle.

    The weird thing is that the solenoid valve very faintly clicks, but then a very high pitch ring eminates from the controller. It was almost like it was trying to engergize the solenoid but just couldn't do it.

    I then took the old valve in my hand and clicked in the connector from the control board. In diagnostic mode, I was able to replicate what I described above. I could feel the solenoid click/somewhat engergize in my hand followed by the high pitch tone. I did this to make sure nothing was bound up when the valve is actually installed in its proper place.

    Any clues? Could the control unit not be sending enough voltage/current to the valve to fully energize?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by slick_spe3 View Post
    Here's what I found last night:
    In diagnostic mode, NO hot water comes through the hot water inlet valve. That confirms what was occurring when my wife was trying to use the Hot Wash Cycle.

    The weird thing is that the solenoid valve very faintly clicks, but then a very high pitch ring eminates from the controller. It was almost like it was trying to engergize the solenoid but just couldn't do it.

    I then took the old valve in my hand and clicked in the connector from the control board. In diagnostic mode, I was able to replicate what I described above. I could feel the solenoid click/somewhat engergize in my hand followed by the high pitch tone. I did this to make sure nothing was bound up when the valve is actually installed in its proper place.

    Any clues? Could the control unit not be sending enough voltage/current to the valve to fully energize?
    Do you by chance have the kind of washer inlet hoses that have "burst protection" valves built into the hose? These are getting quite common. The way they work, if the hose were to burst, the internal check valve is triggered and it stops the flow of water. Sometimes those check valves fail and stop the normal flow of water thru the hose. This can really trip you up, trust me- because you might take the hose off at the faucet side, and turn on the faucet and there's pressure/flow, so the focus moves to the washer itself. I have seen this as a tech in the field.
    As for your other questions, these are 24 volt valves, you should be able to quickly figure this issue out if you have a decent VOM and know how to use it properly. You test the valve coil for proper resistance (64 Ohms)
    The voltage supply to the hot should be 24 volts DC. (the cold is proportional but max voltage is 24)

    Thank you for allowing us to serve you!

  5. #5
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    Default Hot water problem??

    We've recently noticed the lack of hot water in our machine and I was thinking of replacing the hot water solenoid as the previous poster did since that seems to be the obvious problem. I had opened the cover to get to the solenoid to make sure that the connector was well seated and gave the valve a couple of taps. Following that I did get hot water entering but didn't run the full cycle at that time to check long term behavior. Washing a load today my wife isn't getting the hot water she expects. Now after reading the fisher tech's post about how the "HOT" water setting is supposed to work I'm not sure about this whole thing. I don't believe that our machine has ever worked as described by the tech. My wife and I are both almost positive that we did get hot water until recently. Our washer is a model GWL10US which I believe is the previous model to the GWL11 and may have operated differently. My previous check of the connector seating and the valve taps may have only caused a temporary activation of the valve opening and it may in fact be failing. We do sometimes want to be able to use a full HOT cycle to include a HOT rinse. Enzyme detergents don't clean everything and sometimes hot water makes a big difference. If the tech could confirm that the GLS10 did in fact operate differently when HOT water is selected this would save me a great deal of time and aggrivation tracking down the problem before buying the wrong parts.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrogLick View Post
    We've recently noticed the lack of hot water in our machine and I was thinking of replacing the hot water solenoid as the previous poster did since that seems to be the obvious problem. I had opened the cover to get to the solenoid to make sure that the connector was well seated and gave the valve a couple of taps. Following that I did get hot water entering but didn't run the full cycle at that time to check long term behavior. Washing a load today my wife isn't getting the hot water she expects. Now after reading the fisher tech's post about how the "HOT" water setting is supposed to work I'm not sure about this whole thing. I don't believe that our machine has ever worked as described by the tech. My wife and I are both almost positive that we did get hot water until recently. Our washer is a model GWL10US which I believe is the previous model to the GWL11 and may have operated differently. My previous check of the connector seating and the valve taps may have only caused a temporary activation of the valve opening and it may in fact be failing. We do sometimes want to be able to use a full HOT cycle to include a HOT rinse. Enzyme detergents don't clean everything and sometimes hot water makes a big difference. If the tech could confirm that the GLS10 did in fact operate differently when HOT water is selected this would save me a great deal of time and aggrivation tracking down the problem before buying the wrong parts.
    GWL10 models operate the same way as all Ecosmart washers do. It does not fill the tub with pure hot water, the hot water is only at the very start during the recirculate function.
    Thank you for allowing us to serve you!

  7. #7
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    I do understand the Ecosmart "energy saving" logic behind not using hot water all the time but sometimes detergents work best with a prolonged hot water wash. My wife says that if she can't wash with hot water when she wants to she wants a new washer. Too bad, except for the difficulty in finding a service man (I've ultimately had to do repairs myself) it's otherwise been a fairly dependable and good machine.

  8. #8
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    Is there some way to "trick" the program into using more hot water? Apparently some models have a machine cleaning cycle to get rid of scud that uses more hot water but my Users Manual doesn't show such a cycle. The "Options" setting routine doesn't allow a HOT water setting either.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrogLick View Post
    We do sometimes want to be able to use a full HOT cycle to include a HOT rinse. Enzyme detergents don't clean everything and sometimes hot water makes a big difference. If the tech could confirm that the GLS10 did in fact operate differently when HOT water is selected this would save me a great deal of time and aggrivation tracking down the problem before buying the wrong parts.
    You can get a full hot fill on GWL10 via the machine cleaning cycle ... or by manually filling to the desired water level via diagnostic mode, then selecting the desired cycle and the water level manually. The EcoActive wash phase won't be run if the tub is already filled, it'll go on into the agitated wash.

    To access the cleaning cycle: Turn on the Power. Select Perm Press cycle. Press and hold Wash Temp Up and Wash Temp Down at the same time until a beep occurs and the temp light goes to Hot. The machine will fill with hot water to a full level and run through the cycle. Perm Press does not do the EcoActive wash phase.

    There's no way to get a hot rinse, and the machine won't spin higher than to medium speed without a cold rinse occurring first.

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